Re-hemp job?

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clarepiper
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Real Name: George Hardin
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Re-hemp job?

Post by clarepiper » Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:05 pm

I am trying to get a Daye half set back in working order, and find myself pulling lots of plumbers tape from the drones. Any advise on re-hemping? I am rather clueless, and my trial and error method is not producing good seal.

Thanks

G
How do you get two pipers to play in tune?...Shoot one.

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djm
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Re: Re-hemp job?

Post by djm » Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:50 pm

You'll get lots of suggestions. NPU sells hemp for wrapping. Others have had good success using dental floss, unwaxed for the bits that are supposed to move/slide, waxed for the bits that aren't supposed to move. Some people advise not to use waxed thread at all. You can try different types of heavy thread - the types used for making lace work well. Check a local arts n crafts store. Try a few different weights/thicknesses until you get something that works well for you. Don't be afraid to put on more than one layer when wrapping.

Dave.M
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clarepiper
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Location: Bryant, Arkansas

Re: Re-hemp job?

Post by clarepiper » Fri Jan 17, 2014 8:42 pm

I used to use floss on my highland pipes ages ago...found it compresses too much, i have some flax pipe hemp but have never completely re done the job from bare sticks, so it's technique I'm looking for...the wife does Irish lace, but would kill me if i used her thread.
How do you get two pipers to play in tune?...Shoot one.

Ted
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Re: Re-hemp job?

Post by Ted » Sat Mar 08, 2014 6:04 pm

The website, piperssupply.com sells the proper hemp and wax for the job. There is an article on the site about maintenance.

learnthegrip
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Re: Re-hemp job?

Post by learnthegrip » Fri Mar 14, 2014 1:30 pm

Here's some technique for you:

Really any thread that has roughly the diameter of the ubiquitous yellow GHB 'hemp' will work. I prefer linen but you can make an argument for a number of fibers.

The first few inches of the hemp is usually waxed somehow. Cobbler's wax is my favorite for this (see Ted on this forum to purchase the real thing), but beeswax might work as well. What you want is a first layer that adheres somewhat to the tenon. To secure the hemp to the tenon, lay a short length of hemp parallel to the tenon and wrap over it for several turns. Start at the base of the tenon, wrapping closely so that there are no gaps between adjacent turns of hemp, trying not to overlap or cross (this is next to impossible for me, but it's what I always strive for). The waxed portion can extend anywhere from a few turns to the entire first layer. I usually stop a few mm from the end of the tenon so that there is room for the hemp to shift somewhat without loops coming off the end. Double back and wrap almost to the base of the tenon again. Keep a fair bit of tension on the hemp throughout this process so that the wraps are tight as well as even. Continue doing this until the tenon fits into the stock with just the tiniest bit of resistance. At this point I tie off the thread. The seal will not be airtight, but now you some room to take off thread without disturbing the foundation wrap. Once the foundation is tied off, you can begin again with another layer or two until the tenon fits snugly into its mortise. With linen especially, you can get a snug fit that is airtight but still fairly easy to remove. This top layer gets adjusted a lot in bellows-blown pipes, a lot more than GHB wrappings.

With some drones, especially tenor tuning slides, you might find that you can't put more than one layer of hemp on without the fit being too tight. In this case, you can try splitting the hemp—easier than you'd think—into its separate strands, or switching to button thread or even sewing thread. Again, any fiber will work but I think a top layer of silk gives a nice feel to the tuning slide.

Occasionally you might find that a drone wobbles in the stock, despite having a snug fit and even wrapping. If this happens, you may have to add thread to either the base or the end of the tenon so that the wrap tapers. Don't be too quick to assume that your wrappings are leaking. Especially with an older set, the leaks might be a loose seated reed, the tie-in of the stocks into the bag, or you might even have a failing bag. If you haven't yet taken off everything and corked the stocks to test for air-tightness you should do so. It can save you a lot of frustration. Geoff Woof recommends filling the bag with air and sitting on it to test for airtightness.

Hope this helps

Ken

Mr Hulot
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Re: Re-hemp job?

Post by Mr Hulot » Mon May 19, 2014 1:48 am

Was shown by my pipe maker to use hemp that is waxed for the first layer to help it grip the wood then other layers dry. The fit is then fine tuned with cotton sewing thread.

wooff
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Re: Re-hemp job?

Post by wooff » Mon May 19, 2014 4:43 am

learnthegrip wrote:

Occasionally you might find that a drone wobbles in the stock, despite having a snug fit and even wrapping. If this happens, you may have to add thread to either the base or the end of the tenon so that the wrap tapers. Don't be too quick to assume that your wrappings are leaking. Especially with an older set, the leaks might be a loose seated reed, the tie-in of the stocks into the bag, or you might even have a failing bag. If you haven't yet taken off everything and corked the stocks to test for air-tightness you should do so. It can save you a lot of frustration. Geoff Woof recommends filling the bag with air and sitting on it to test for airtightness.

Hope this helps

Ken

What you describe Ken, of a drone wobbling in the Stock even with a snug fit binding, shows that the stock has either shrunk, due to loosing moisture too quickly through the end grain, the hole for the drone becomes smaller at the outside end thus sufficent wrapping cannot pass this tight spot in order to make a good fit as the hole gets bigger further into the stock, or perhaps the hole was badly drilled to start with.
Because of this possibility I taper my stock holes (slightly) in the opposite direction... so they begin life slightly larger at the open end. A slightly conical winding is then needed.

Sitting on the fully inflated bag... it should NOT deflate at all , though it might loose a small amount, the better it holds up the easier will be your pumping life.

Geoff Wooff.

learnthegrip
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Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:23 pm
Real Name: Ken Matley

Re: Re-hemp job?

Post by learnthegrip » Tue May 20, 2014 9:14 am

Somehow I'm not surprised, Geoff, that you've thoroughly thought out and found a solution to this issue. My pipes are from the 1970s and have many of the problems that you and other makers have since learned from.

wooff
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Real Name: geoffrey wooff

Re: Re-hemp job?

Post by wooff » Wed May 21, 2014 2:18 pm

Oh yes, the 1970's!! ... many of us were learning the hard way. However some of the problems, like the one you describe, can be cured now.

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